Overview 

October is here, and fall is in the air. Our fun combo of swell continues into this week’s forecast, but dropping off in size a bit from last week. The dominant energy for most spots will be the south swell from the South Pacific, but there will be a touch of minor NW swell most days and should be enough to break up that dominant south at times.

The biggest days in the forecast will be Thursday / Friday and into the weekend due to that lingering south swell in the water. The first few days of the forecast will see clean conditions due to very light offshore flow and an upper level high over our region. This will result in warm conditions even for the coastal areas into the weekend.

Into the workweek, size will be smaller but still rideable as a little combo of swell persists. 

Towards the end of the forecast things get a bit more interesting weather wise as a trough is expected to approach our area bringing cooler weather along with the slight possibility of some showers. Conditions could deteriorate some at that time, but there won’t be much swell running anyways. 

Our local water temperatures will be in the mid-60s to start off October, with some spots even flirting with the 70 degree mark. These water temps should gradually cool as we head deeper into October, especially as a cooler weather pattern looks to take shape for the middle of the month. 

Best Bets 

-Target the first few days in the forecast for the biggest and best surf 

-Clean conditions persist into the start of the forecast 

-Warm weather across the region, until cooler weather takes over mid-week

Day to Day Breakdown

Thursday the 30th: 3-4+ feet 

Biggest day in the forecast. Holding south swell and easing mix of NW swell. Combo breaks in the morning should see really fun surf as light offshore winds are expected. Winds will trend onshore in the afternoon but only topping out at moderate levels as some breaks remain somewhat clean into the evening. 

Friday the 1st: 2-4 feet 

A nice day to kick off October. South swell will be hanging around, while the NW swell mix drops out and shows waves for only select winter breaks. Conditions will be calm with glassy conditions in the morning, and the afternoon is looking fairly light as well. Target the south facing breaks this day. 

Saturday the 2nd: 2-3+ feet 

South swell slowly eases while a slight bump in NW swell rebounds. The south swell will still be the dominant swell in the water, but the wintertime breaks will see rideable surf, as well as some peaks for the combo breaks. Morning winds will be light, followed by a westerly sea breeze. Note, these afternoon winds will be a bit stronger than Friday’s, so target the morning if looking to get in the water.

Sunday the 3rd: 2-3 feet 

Similar to Saturday as the mix of swell slightly fades. Will still be rideable and fun for some areas as light morning winds are expected. Might want to find somewhere that can handle the higher morning tide too. Afternoon winds will be similar to Saturday as a westerly seabreeze persists. 

Monday the 4th: 2-3 feet 

Continued mix of small south swell and minor leftover NW swell. Could still be a fun morning for high tide spots as light winds are expected. Afternoon winds are looking a bit lighter than the weekend, so it could possibly be worth an evening session for areas that could see winds lighten. 

Tuesday the 5th: 2-3 feet 

Similar to Monday as just leftovers of south swell shows. Our incoming trough may begin to impact our region, so winds may trend unfavorable. Slight chance of showers in the forecast too. 

Wednesday the 6th: 2-3 feet 

Small surf continues, but local winds could improve. Lack of swell and deep morning high tide will slow things down the first half of the day. 

– Jax Richards @jax6street

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